The Golden City Temple.

I didn’t experience much temple fatigue while in Laos… but I certainly am during the blogging process. I think this is the last one for awhile… and it also happens to be Luang Prabang’s most impressive temple.

Wat Xieng Thong was built in 1559-1560 but has undergone plenty of restoration work over the years. Until 1975 it received royal patronage and served as the coronation site for Laotian kings. The temple is impressive indeed, but that didn’t stop us from being distracted by this giant grasshopper at the entrance.

The Red Temple.

After visiting the Royal Palace Museum, Mike and I began walking toward the tip of the peninsula. I don’t remember if we had a particular place in mind. In Luang Prabang it doesn’t really matter if you have a set destination. You’re sure to encounter something beautiful.

We ended up stopping at a little cafe to get breakfast for Mike and a smoothie for me. The cafe happened to be across the street from Wat Sensoukarahm so we decided to stop by. The facade of the temple is a beautiful red color, hence the nickname “Red Temple.” It was built in 1718 and later restored twice (1932, 1957).

Only a few other visitors were on the grounds yet nearly every one of them (including Mike) insisted on standing directly in my shots. I’d reframe and they’d move again! In an effort to keep a peaceful atmosphere peaceful, it was time to move on.*

xo, jill

*Well obviously I got a few without tourists but it was tough!

Simple luxury.

Our first official sightseeing in Luang Prabang was at the Haw Kham Royal Palace Museum. The palace was built in 1904 and was used until 1975 when the communists overthrew the monarchy. Now it is open to visitors seeking a glimpse into the lives of the royal family.

Photographs are not allowed inside but I was particularly enchanted with the royal bedrooms. It’s just fun to see where important people sleep at night. The king had an especially ginormous armoire. It was also fun to see the many gifts from different heads of state.

Also on the grounds is Haw Pha Bang, a very impressive Buddhist temple. It was also my favorite. You’ll see plenty of photos of this one in later posts.

xo, jill

At last.

What is it about doing nothing all day that is so exhausting? Our bus ride from Luang Prabang was an all day adventure of winding roads and sitting. By the time we arrived, we were exhausted but ready to stretch our legs.

After finding our very comfortable hotel, we walked into town for the night market and dinner.

Here are a few photos I took on the way.

I bet by looking at our faces you could guess it was an early night.

xo, jill

My least favorite part of the trip.

I’ve been procrastinating on this post because I didn’t want to sound like a cranky old grandma, but here goes…

I knew that if Mike and I argued on this trip, it would be in Vang Vieng. He really wanted to go (again). I really didn’t.

Vang Vieng seems to be one of those places that elicits strong feelings on both sides. Those who think it’s a backpackers paradise, and those who think it’s a… what’s a more polite word for sh*thole? (Ok, a sh*thole set amidst pretty scenery.)

Vang Vieng is a town dominated by tourism. The popular attraction is tubing down a river lined with bars, slides, swings, and ziplines. After a wild day on the water you can relax at one of the many restaurants serving sub par food and looping episodes of Friends or Family Guy. Drugs are either on the menu or easy to get. There are a lot of scantily clad people zoned out, lounging, or walking around. Honestly, the whole place is kind of weird (and sad).

Twenty seven people died in Vang Vieng last year. Mixing drinking, drugs, an unpredictable river, and rope swings tends to be a bad idea. Mike talked to one guy there whose friend had recently discovered a dead body in the water. That is traumatic.

Earlier this year an Australian died on the river whose father is a powerful player in Australia’s media. Due to the father’s impact and media efforts, many of the swings and ziplines were dismantled four days before we arrived. I don’t know how accurate that information is, but I do know that most of the swings, slides, and ziplines were gone.

I declined tubing having been warned about the potential for contracting infections (conjunctivitis and cystisis) from the water. Mike went for it and said it was not nearly the adventure it had been two years ago. Before it had been more of a water jungle gym with some drinking. This time is was heavy enthusiasm to partake in drinking games and… not too many people around to play them.

The town is also sad because of how the tourism has affected the locals. I suppose they don’t enjoy having to clean up the mess or witness the making of it. I’ve also read that some of the locals are wary of bad spirits near the water, since so many tourists have died in the river.

My actual experience in Vang Vieng wasn’t so bad. I didn’t tube or stay out until the wee hours so I escaped much of the debauchery. Unfortunately, the sky was hazy so I couldn’t see the beautiful surroundings that I was actually looking forward to seeing. Plus, the motorbike we rented wasn’t very powerful. It didn’t make exploring outside of town very comfortable. Mostly, the two nights we spent in Vang Vieng just felt like wasted time.

I’ve read about a bajillion articles, blogs, and forums about Vang Vieng but I think this one from the Guardian explains it all the best. It was written just a few days after we left.

I’m curious to hear what some of you might think. I met a Swiss woman who was planning to take her 13 and 15 year old tubing… I wasn’t sure if she was trying to be a “really cool parent” or was just wasn’t aware of the details. 

xo, jill

PS All of these photos are near our hotel. The party scene is up the river a few kilometers.

and the kids who stole my snacks.

Sometimes when you travel, you do a lot of searching. I’m not talking about the kind that involves your soul and gazing at your navel. I’m talking about the kind where you are speed walking down streets late at night in Bratislava on the hunt for tacos. Or getting lost in Vienna looking for that one vegetarian restaurant that Lonely Planet claims to be amazing.

After visiting Patuxai we found ourselves on one of these searches. Luckily we had the scooter to do all of the hard locomotive work. This time we were looking for something a bit more culturally relevant than tacos. Mike had heard about a seemingly magical place where you can enjoy a cheap sauna and message in a little forest on the grounds of a temple. Even using a GPS, we were having a difficult time. At one point we stopped to ask and were ushered onto the grounds of an International School. Maybe we should have stopped in for a quick interview?

Eventually we found it but not before I agreed to have a massage at a parlor down the block. I abhor confrontation so I stayed for the massage while Mike continued on until he found the actual place, Wat Sok Pa Luang. After my massage he brought me to the wat so I could see it for myself. Understandably, I didn’t take any photos as people were lounging around and sweating up the place. However, I did take one of the walkway in.

Later in the day we ended up once again near the Mekong. We stopped to snack on some steps and were instantly greeted by a few cute and very sneaky children.

It didn’t take long for one to get into my chips and another to walk off with my packet of crackers. I know it’s teaching them bad habits, but I didn’t chastise them. I didn’t know what to do (and I’m a teacher!). They were so cute. Especially when one accidentally let go of her helium balloon. Instead of getting upset she just waved and said, “Buh-bye!”

What do you do when you get scammed by super cute kids? 

xo, jill