(Not) giving alms in Luang Prabang.

A mini-rant.Our last morning in Luang Prabang we decided to wake up early to witness the alms giving procession. We both had mixed feelings about it. On one hand, we wanted to see what we expected to be a beautiful and peaceful procession. On the other hand, we didn’t want to be the obnoxious tourists mucking up the atmosphere.

We decided that we would attend the procession but do so from a good distance away. We sat quietly across the street and I took most of my (very blurry) photos from the hip.

But really, the whole experience was just kind of weird.

Guidelines for participating in or observing the alms giving are posted around the city, at guesthouses, and in guidebooks. There’s definitely a right and wrong way to do it. Unfortunately, most of the people we saw did not get the memo. It was embarrassing.

It all started when two buses pulled up to the curb we were sitting on. We had to laugh. Not only did they block our view of the entire street, but we had been told to arrive by foot or bicycle so as not to disrupt the peace. Fortunately, after the buses unloaded their groups of tourists they took off. Next, a mini van loaded with people rolled up to the opposite side of the street. A guide directed the people to their designated offering spot and gave them a quick run down of the procedure.

Then the monks arrived.

I’m not an expert but because I had read the guidelines beforehand I had a pretty good idea that some people were doing it wrong.

Following the monks down the street with your camera two feet from their faces? Wrong!

Posing for a picture while you give alms? Wrong!

Buying food from street vendors as donations? Wrong!

Sharing donations with others in need.

It was almost comical.

I’m definitely not one to ignore my own role in the tourism industry. But I can honestly say I’ve never behaved like some of these tourists did. To be fair, they probably had bad information (or no information) but is that an excuse?

xo, jill

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Comments

  1. I like this post! So often this kind of stuff happens and it is even hard to know what is “ok” sometimes but then I think these are things you learn the more you travel and you cringe at those around you that haven’t figured it out and never will! Thanks for sharing

  2. I don’t think ignorance should be used as an excuse in these situations; somehow you managed to find out what was acceptable and what was not, so I find it hard to believe these other people couldn’t have done the same. Plus, once you’re of a certain age, you should have enough common sense to know what is and what is not appropriate behavior. I’ve heard a lot of bloggers post recently about “ugly tourist” behavior at these alms giving ceremonies, which is just so unfortunate (and must make for an uncomfortable experience as well).

  3. Sometimes I find it so difficult not to photograph beautiful moments even when I know they probably shouldn’t be photographed. I had this same feeling when I was in a temple in Macau. I wrote about it in my last post. Gorgeous pics!!!

  4. I totally did go to see the alms being offered, and was disappointed (with people) as well. I think that it’s OK to stand close by and take photos, as long as you are not being over the top and not in anyone’s way. I really disliked people using flash, showing up in buses and supporting food vendors. The thing is giving alms happens everywhere, every day in Buddhist countries yet somehow tourists act as though it only happens in Luang Prabang, and they are destroying the “magic” of the custom. I agree with Andi though, it’s hard (so hard!) to resist taking pictures of beautiful things…

  5. jillacox says:

    I know that a lot people like to preach about the evils of using guidebooks, but really there’s a lot of good information laid out in Lonely Planet that lets you know how to behave! Not saying that these tourists in particular are anti-guidebook but that the information is readily available. I couldn’t help but think …”Obviously somebody didn’t read the box on page x.” 😉

  6. jillacox says:

    Hehe. I originally had a line in that post about how it should be common sense to not put your camera in a monk’s face (or anyone’s really). And you’re right, it was definitely uncomfortable. There were two women sitting near us and we just kept looking at each other speechless over how rude and oblivious some of the other tourists were.

  7. jillacox says:

    I one of those people who has a deep internal need to follow the rules so maybe it’s a bit easier for me than others. I hate “getting in trouble.” 😉

    Your post was beautiful. I can’t believe you managed to take so many lovely photographs before putting your camera away.

  8. jillacox says:

    Yeah, I thought the point of viewing it in Luang Prabang as opposed to other places was because it’s so exceptionally beautiful there. The overzealous tourists kind of ruin that vibe. Especially when it’s so easy to find information about how to respectfully attend the ceremony.

  9. It’s unfortunate, but one finds this kind of irreverence anywhere tourists frequent. Pick almost any cathedral in Europe, for example. Or here in the United States, where I’ve watched tourists interrupt solemn liturgies with flash photography or mobile phone conversations.

    Perhaps there’s some value to searching out religious customs in places where they’re practiced out of sight of most tourists. But then you also have to resist the temptation to blog about your location later.

  10. jillacox says:

    Good point. It does happen all over.

  11. Elizabeth Buck says:

    very interesting post. I am so curious when I see my neighbors giving alms in the morning here in Thailand, I would love to learn the correct way to do it. I went to some temples with my Thai friends once and they said it was totally okay to take pictures of everything, I thought it was so weird…

    I find the way most Asians take photos to be quite comical for sure. Who needs 1000 photos of themselves looking at the camera in different places, haha, its very annoying!

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